Lettuce Gutter Garden: How to Build & Grow
Disclaimer: I wrote this post from the perspective of gardening in the hardy zone 6a–8a, as I have grown lettuce and spinach in this hardy zone range with this gutter garden system.
An old, weathered white fence broke up our old one-acre homestead backyard. The posts were in great shape, but the horizontal beams fell apart and fell off the posts. So not only did I upcycle the old fence posts for building a blackberry trellis, but I also rescued some old aluminum gutters from a neighbor’s garbage pile. All so I can grow a loose-leaf lettuce and spinach gutter garden.
First, I measured the old fencing and knocked out existing horizontal beams that got in the way. The distance from post to post was about 8 feet, so I calculated I could get 3 gutters on one side of the post from the total of 24 feet of gutters I accumulated.
UPDATE: The next spring, we replace a 40-foot stretch of gutters in the front of our house and could put on another four 8-foot gardens. Also, you can attach the gutters to an existing wall like a shed or side of a house. It’s unnecessary to have old fence posts.
How to build the gutter garden.
Using a Sawzall, we are partial to Milwaukee brands for all our battery-operated tools, and with a metal cutting blade, I cut the gutters into four pieces. You many need more or less, all depending on your size. The first two gutters are complete that have the down spout hole and my third and bottom gutter comprised the two leftover pieces. I laid it out so the downspouts of the gutters would be the garden’s drainage.
We also purchased and installed a few end caps, so the soil stays in the gutter. I used K-style end caps that were fit to size. Then, I hot-glued pieces of window screening to the top of the gutter downspout opening on the proper ends. This will also help keep soil and water from being washed clear out of the gutter while still allowing for proper drainage. The window screening will also not mold or deteriorate with the constant water.
My husband kindly pointed out that the weight of the gutters with soil would exceed our expectations. So, we measured, cut to size, and screwed up three pressure-treated 2×4 wood beams, which we had in our wood stockpile.
On these 2×4’s I installed the gutters with a 2-inch slant because we can get a lot of rain here and I didn’t want the lettuce to drown. The slant will give proper drainage into the opening downspout that was screened earlier. What I mean by a 2-inch slant is that the height of the top of one side of the beam is 2 inches higher than the other side. If there is a side of your gutter that isn’t a downspout opening, then make sure you have drilled a few holes.
A few tricks and tips for the best results
I built our lettuce garden under a large pecan tree so it would get plenty of shade during our hot North Carolina summers. The idea behind this was to be able to keep lettuce growing so I can actually have a complete salad from the garden when cucumbers and tomatoes are harvested. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn’t. But too much hot sun will destroy your leaves.
First reason for the window screening, pecan trees canopy our gutter garden. In the fall pecans fall and fall like any nut tree. They seem to land perfectly in the gutters. Secondly, we also have an abundance of squirrels who like to bury the pecans in the fall. I know this because I have seen fresh holes throughout the gutters before. I have also noticed squirrels will go after fresh and easy to dig up dirt, so the gutters are a great spot for them.
This screening barrier has been working great in so many ways. It has kept falling nuts and obtrusive animals out, but it also allows water and sunlight to get in. The mesh net traps the rainwater and drips slowly onto the soil.
You can see to the left how the lettuce has absolutely no problem germinating under the window screening. But it is a problem when the lettuce and spinach grew too big for the screening but hasn’t grown enough to be removed. So, I came up with a genius, yes genius, way to give the lettuce more room, old electrical wire bridges. I found some unused…not attached to electricity mind you…thick electrical wire. Then cut it into pieces that fit my gutters and raised up the screening. I use three per gutter. Make sure to cut the window screening a little longer then, the gutters. When raised it ensured everything covered and protected. Once your lettuce grows in fully, you can remove the bridges. Typically, the squirrels will leave my gutters alone once they are full of greens.
I like to water my gutter gardens everyday. That might seem a little nuts but I have found that the gutter garden losses moisture much faster then a garden in the ground. I do have the gutters on a bit of a slant which helps to drain the excess water out when we get a week straight of rains (typically in April) so that may have something to do with it, as well. But also it is a small container with the weather wrapping around it from every side. I didn’t water the gutters for 2 days and the lettuce started to brown. It looked burnt which was silly since it was early March and not yet 95+ degrees.
The window screen is also useful during those out-of-character snowstorms. The screen protected my tender spinach from the nearly two inches of snow in this picture. The screen kept the heavy snow from crushing the plants. It also prevented any ice burns from occurring. It is very easy to throw the snow off as well; just lift off the window screen.
Now it’s time to harvest and eat your own lettuce!
So you look outside, and you have lettuce. You did everything correctly. The beautiful greens and reds are growing together in harmony and look good enough to eat. Don’t worry, you can, and it’s easy. With a clean pair of scissors, cut your lettuce at the bottom. I leave about 1/2 inch of stem on the plant. If the lettuce plant is strong, then it will grow back for another harvest in about a week or two.
Sometimes some plants don’t make it. I pull the wilted plants out of the soil and add new lettuce seeds to the open area. So now you have all the information to go outside and make your own lettuce garden! So go…do…eat and enjoy!!!!
Lettuce Gutter Garden
Equipment
- 1 Sawzall & Metal cutting blades
- 1 Scissors
- 1 Staple gun & staples
- 1 Drill & screws
- 1 Wire cutting tool
Materials
- 1+ pieces Plastic or Aluminum Gutters
- 1+ pieces Gutter end caps
- 1+ pieces Window Screening
- 1+ pieces Pressure-treated 2×4 lumber
- 1+ pieces Electrical wire
- 1+ pounds Garden soil
- 1_ oz Loose-leaf lettuce or Spinach seeds
Instructions
- Measure the old fencing posts and knocked out existing horizontal beams, if necessary.Or install post the necessary distance. Or measure the area on a wall where you are to install the gutters.
- Using a Sawzall and a metal cutting blade, cut the gutters into sizable pieces that will fit your post and installation area, if necessary.
- Install any metal or plastic end caps, so the soil stays in the gutter. Then, hot-glued pieces of window screening to the top of the gutter downspout opening on the proper ends.
- Install with a drill and screws pressure treated 2×4 lumber the length of the gutters which will hold the weight of gutters and soil.Then using a 2-inch slant from one end to the other, screw the gutters to the lumber, making sure any downspouts are at the lower end of the slant to become the drainage.
- Cut strips of window screening which is longer and larger than gutter. Staple screening to the back of the wood lumber.Fill gutters with potting soil.
- Using a wire cutting tool, cut electrical wires to proper size and bend into a U-shape to fit the gutters and lifts up window screening. The longer the wire, the taller the loop.
- Plant lettuce and spinach seeds at the proper season and time, water continuously and harvest when necessary.
Does the aluminum break down with the damp soil? I was thinking vinyl instead of aluminum. Do you have an opinion?
Vinyl would work just as well. Good luck.